An easy (and addictive) springtime bolognese

with caramelized fennel, lemon, spring herbs & green olives (+ handcut einkorn pasta)

springy bolognese on literal repeat

When you find yourself making a recipe on repeat and never tire of it, you know you’ve locked down a good one. This is that recipe—equal parts comforting and reviving, it calls in fresh flavors of early spring. And with the full tilt of brisk weather, that perfect mix of a chilled air and warm sunshine, it’s time to get this beauty of dish out into the world, and onto your plates. The combo of aromatic fennel bulb, herbaceous spring herbs, a citrusy zip from some lemon, brininess from green olives and a tiny blast of awakening salted green peppercorn meld together to bring this very quick bolognese together in under 40 minutes. Eat it straight from the pot (or with some pasta) or prep it and pop it in the fridge—the flavors will taste even better as they sit in sync overnight. I’ll make a nice-sized batch of it which will either last 4-6 days, 6-8 servings, or a nice-to-have stash in the freezer. It’s fresh, fast and incredibly satisfying.

Given we’re discussing bolognese, this feels like the appropriate time to unleash a simple handmade pasta recipe I’ve been honing for a few months now. It features einkorn flour which I’ve mentioned a few times in the past. Specifically, the einkorn I’m currently using is from a lovely grain farm in Fyn, Denmark called Vild Hvede (which translates to Wild Wheat). Einkorn is an ancient heritage strain of wheat that is bursting with nutty nuances, a higher protein content and higher nutrient and antioxidant value (than many typical modern strains of wheat) and a gorgeously silky mouth feel. It’s also easier to digest given it’s straightforward gluten structure—so if you’re gluten-lite or have trouble with pasta at times, this recipe is for you! If you’re living in Denmark, you can find Vild Hvede’s golden einkorn flour here. If you’re living in the NYC / the US, einkorn is readily available online. My go-to small-batch source in NYC is River Valley Community Grains found here. I’ve included the recipe down below the bolognese. Handmade pasta may seem like a hassle if it’s not in your wheelhouse, but it’s easy, efficient and incredibly meditative. And if you’re gluten/pasta-sensitive, I’ve personally noticed a distinct shift in how I digest pasta when I take the time to make my own. Well-sourced flours lead to easier digestion and less (or zero) bloating!

Springtime Bolognese with Fennel, Lemon & Green Olives

Makes about 1.5-2 quarts/liters

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 medium onion, minced

6 garlic cloves, finely slivered or minced

1/2-1 fennel bulb, finely minced (1 if it’s a tiny bulb, 1/2 if it’s pretty large)

*you’re going for nuance and depth here, not overwhelming fennel/anise flavor

2 carrots, finely minced or brunoise (cut into teeny squares)

½ meyer lemon (or regular lemon), finely minced

⅓ cup castelvetrano green olives, pitted and finely minced

1 ½ lb (¾ kg) pork mince *(ground chicken would serve as a good stand-in as well)

3 bay leaves

4 sprigs of fresh marjoram, chervil or oregano (marjoram is my preference for this time of year)

½-¾ cup (~125-175ml) whole milk

¾-1 cup (~175-235ml) inexpensive white or orange wine (I love using up orange wine that’s sitting around open in my fridge, it brings a little more depth to the dish)

1 - 2 teaspoons salted green kampot peppercorn, roughly chopped, if desired*

*note: salted green kampot peppercorn is bright, lightly peppery and aromatic and adds intrigue and depth to dishes, especially beef/fish/pork/grilled veg. you can eat a whole peppercorn as they’re not yet dried, preserved in a fresh state via salting. find them online & in specialty spice shops, they’re worth a little splurge.

2-3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

kosher salt to taste

ground black peppercorn to taste

grated grana padano or parmesan cheese for garnish

fresh fennel fronds and meyer lemon zest for garnish

In a large saucepan or skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the onions, garlic, fennel and carrot. Saute for 5-7 minutes until fragrant. Add the lemon and olives, saute another 2-3 minutes. Season with salt. Add the ground pork and saute until lightly browned and cooked through, about 7-8 minutes, season with salt and black pepper. Add in the bay leaf, fresh herb sprigs, milk and wine. Bump the heat to medium-high and bring to a light boil. Reduce the heat to low-medium and all the bolognese to gently simmer for 25-40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add in the salted green peppercorn and apple cider vinegar in the last 5 minutes of cooking. As needed, reduce the heat further and add a splash of additional milk or wine to keep the consistency of the sauce nice and cohesive but juicy and slightly creamy. The flavors will intensify overnight, but it’s lovely and delicious to eat right away. Before serving, adjust the seasoning for salt and black pepper. Serve with it some nice pappardelle or fettuccine pasta and garnish with grana or parm, fennel fronds and lemon zest.

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Handcut Einkorn Pasta

serves 8-10

pasta made w/ Vild Hvede’s golden einkorn, basking in it’s beauty